Trains, bikes and toilets.

The train ride to Kanyakumari can be described in extremes. It was both a testing experience and a enlightening one. It tested our tolerance levels for the lack of basic hygiene, all the while gifting us with the most open and generous company. We stayed for two nights in a sleeper class train car which would have been perfectly fine for a shorter journey. Each car is divided in to sections of seats which are folded down into 8 vinyl covered beds in the evening. There, as most places we’ve been so far, was no place for garbage which as we found out was to be either chucked out the window or put down the hole between the cars. The environmentalist in both of us screamed a strong catholic-like guilt as we were left with little choice but the best option: to put it down the hole, at a station where it might get cleaned up. As you can imagine the country side is riddled in garbage piles, some of which are burned which add a lovely toxic smell to the afternoon breeze.

There was an relentless number of passengers coming on and off throughout our trip. One family of 10 that stayed with us for our first night were a lovely matriarchy, with grandma at the lead. The women felt our skin, smiled, giggled and we knew they spoke about us often. Lisa made fast friends with the 4 kids. She has an amazing ability to find joy in children and adults alike, using an honest and genuine smile and greeting. Lisa taught the kids tic-tac-toe, thumb war and others. The only common language was Fun.

Steetal a twenty year-old shared her blanket in the cold night and due to an over crowded train, ended up sharing my bed as well. They offered us food, enormous smiles and we communicated with each other with more than actions, drawings and no more than 7 English words.

Turns out they were only to able to pay part of their fare and nearly got kicked off the next day before making their pilgrimage to their temple of choice. A long incomprehensible argument ensued and we eventually offered to pay some of their fair. The ticket man gave them (and us) a good deal and they remained on the train. They relentlessly offered to pay us back, but we would not except explaining to grandma that it was pay back for kicking a man off the edge of Lisa’s bed during the night (probably harmlessly so since there was no where else to sit). We enjoyed/endured their presence for most of the next day. Having 14 people who never stopped talking (loudly) crammed in a space for 8 was a wee bit taxing!

Glad to see the back of them, some quieter Krishna pilgrims took their place. So very pleased with us for being generous to that family. Every snack, meal was shared. Every smile immeasurably kind. We were blown away by their kindness, and they were just happy to know they were spreading more good karma. Here's a picture of one the Krishna pilgrams in a spiritual position.

Lesson from India no. 2= The people who have the least are the most generous.

Lesson no. 3= Big smiles and a ‘hello’ will reveal almost any rude-looking stare to be what it really is; harmless curiosity.

After two nights in the train:

-we both stopped visiting the hole-in-the-floor-toilet unless in was absolutely necessary. It was becoming beyond unbearable.

-we both stopped eating due to the overwhelming dirt, mess, and crowdedness, it just became too unappetizing.

-we were completely sick of the relentless precession of food sellers chanting their wears up and down the aisles starting at 530am-even though much of it was delicious and very cheap.

-Lisa got a cold from a ‘docter’ who coughed in her direction for an entire night.

-we swore we’d never do it again

-we swore it was one the best experiences we could have had.

We spent a few nights in Kanyakumari so Lisa could get over her cold. The place was far too religious for us, the Christians starting prayer over a loud speaker at 530am, then the Muslims at 6am and the Krishnas at 630am. We left amongst many stares on our first leg of cycling. A 90km ride became 120km as we weaved in and out of towns because of vague directions towards Kovalum, which every one said, ’yes yes 20kms away‘, for the entire journey. We learned to ask the rickshaw driver’s for accurate mileage.

The ride here was a bit stressful, everything people say about Indian traffic is true. Just when we thought we’d have to change the plan we met 3 cyclists from South Africa who had cycled all the way!!!!! (it took 21 months). They said there are small coastal roads that are not on the map, you just have to ask the village people along the way and keep the ocean on your left. Sounds good to us! There’s even a little ferry we’ll take, to avoid the big roads. Don’t worry we are being safe!

We’ll spend 4 days here, recovering from the ride and our sick stomachs. We will enjoy this touristy place, its many palm trees and exotic birds, get a massage and swim in the ocean, seeking out the least inflated priced places to eat and sleep.

We met a friendly English bloke whose been to India for the past 11 years who helped us plan the next leg of cycling. We’ll head up to Varkala next around 50-60kms away on Jan. 13^th.

Happily our second hotel here seems giant-cockroach free! And we JUST experienced our first black out, which we came prepared for with headlamps. Ha ha ha.