We stayed 5 days in Kovalam, a beach town fabled once as a pristine destination for hippies in the 70’s. Now more developed and touristy, the relentless sellors really do ruin the atmosphere when your chillin’ at the beach. The beauty of this place lives in contrast, past and present meet and cultures shake hands.











Two days of riding brought us to next beach, Varkala, where we stayed a week. It has such a beautiful beach which the police keep most annoying beach vendors away, and we were able to find our peace. We slooowwwweeedddd dooowwwnnn considerably and sunk into the beeacchhhh life, dude. The heat of the sand in the afternoon made us stupid and sunburnt; so we took to siestas and early morning swims. Covering up in the sun is a necessity, now I know why the head dress started.

You know your relaxed when you have the time to separate the colours of the sand grains.


We met some really nice travellers from Switzerland with whom we shared a few meals. Its nice to meet people on a similar cultural level and not have to pretend we have husbands or that we are Buddhists! Not just that, they were a refreshing couple who see more to life than work.

These beaches are a gentle mix of all. The early mornings have yoga practitioners greeting the day, traditional fishermen returning from their all-night vigil and groups of Indians starting the day off right with religious rituals and prayer. The afternoon sees relatively naked tourists baking in the sun, there lounge chairs and umbrellas are slowly surrounded by fishing nets laid out to dry. The evening bring Indian families for an evening stroll or swim. The boys play in jovial groups and the women wade in fully clothed. We were sad to leave.



Lisa got knocked off her bike on a very small road in the beach town of Varkala…some &#*$ing people! Arg. She was fine, but after a very frustrating day it was the icing on the camels back.

Since Varkala the craziness of the roads have somewhat calmed. We are finding that the 4-lane highway is our best bet as it has at least a 2-foot shoulder. The passing lanes are a very very good thing for bus drivers with something to prove! We’ve learned how to ride here and how to cope. This involves and ear plug in my traffic-side ear, a loud bell and an air filter. Happily we plug along, now very much enjoying our rides. Honk if your Indian!










We hopped a 8 hour ferry up the back water canals of Kerala to bring us to Alleppey.









It was a gorgeous ride, not without its usual realities. The canals are both the sewer system and the swimming pool. The many jellyfish spoke of polluted waters and any far off view is hazy. We were transported to a time were modernity hadn’t made its ugly footprints.




With some of the most biodiversity in the world India has a lot to loose and a lot to save. Cool encounters so far: Kingfisher, big jellyfish, garden spider.




















Another 60kms brings us to Fort Cochin. We found a homestay in a gorgeous house that is spotless and friendly. It even has children to amuse Lisa! Lisa worked on the parents so we could take them swimming for the first time ever! They were ecstatic and so were we.






One day, playing together in the rickety park Lisa noticed a boy around two, playing alone. We brought the police who laughed and explained he was a gypsy street child and not from this province, so there was nothing to do. Eventually a girl came claiming to me his sister though not knowing his name. The child ran off…across the road. It always feels better at least to try. Humph.
The family is lovely, besides the cousin who is 13, works all day and sleeps under the kitchen counter and certain belief-systems we just can’t jive with…we’ve had an amazing time with them so far. We feel at home, have many conversations, share stories and play with the kids. Last night they treated us to authentic toddy (fermented coconut) and a delicious meal.

We took in a show of Kathikali dance, the traditional dance of this province Kerala.


Through all our amazing experiences so far, we now feel adjusted and comfortable in India. It’s a spiritual place, and that’s adsorbing into us. It’s a strong calm in a place that only appears chaotic a first.

Much to the children’s delight we’ll go swimming again today for the second time. Dad has promised to take them once a week now and try to leave the fear of his drowned brother behind.

Tomorrow we head off for an 80km ride up the coast.

We hope that you are all keeping well...

Making waves in India,
Michelle and Lisa